:root{
  box-sizing:border-box;
  padding-top:env(safe-area-inset-top,0px);
  padding-bottom:env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px);
  --cream:#F3E9D2; --paper:#FBF6EA; --sand:#E6D5B2;
  --terra:#B0502D; --terra-d:#873A20; --olive:#5B6836; --olive-d:#3E4824;
  --ochre:#D79A3A; --ink:#2F2A21; --muted:#6B6253; --line:#D9C9A5;
  --on-terra:#FFF7EA;--dk:0%;--ba:55%;
  --serif:"Fraunces",Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;
  --sans:"Jost","Helvetica Neue",Arial,sans-serif;
  --hdr:60px;
}
@media (prefers-color-scheme:dark){
  :root:not([data-theme="light"]){
    --cream:#2B261C; --paper:#221E16; --sand:#3A3324;
    --terra:#D98259; --terra-d:#E9A07C; --olive:#A6B473; --olive-d:#C4D190;
    --ochre:#E2B055; --ink:#F2E9D5; --muted:#BFB49C; --line:#4A412E;
    --on-terra:#2B1A10;--dk:72%;--ba:30%;
  }
}
:root[data-theme="dark"]{
  --cream:#2B261C; --paper:#221E16; --sand:#3A3324;
  --terra:#D98259; --terra-d:#E9A07C; --olive:#A6B473; --olive-d:#C4D190;
  --ochre:#E2B055; --ink:#F2E9D5; --muted:#BFB49C; --line:#4A412E;
  --on-terra:#2B1A10;--dk:72%;--ba:30%;
}
*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:inherit}
html{height:100%;scroll-padding-top:calc(env(safe-area-inset-top,0px) + var(--hdr))}
body{margin:0;min-height:100%;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:400 17px/1.6 var(--sans);-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:600;line-height:1.1;margin:0 0 .5em;letter-spacing:-.01em}
h1{font-size:clamp(2.4rem,5.5vw,4.4rem)}
h2{font-size:clamp(1.9rem,3.6vw,2.9rem)}
h3{font-size:1.4rem}
p{margin:0 0 1em;max-width:62ch}
a{color:var(--terra-d)}
button{font:inherit;color:inherit}
:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--ochre);outline-offset:2px}
.en{display:none}
html[lang="en"] .en{display:inline}
html[lang="en"] .it{display:none}
html[lang="en"] p.en,html[lang="en"] div.en,html[lang="en"] li.en{display:block}
p.en,div.en,li.en{display:none}

/* ---------- header ---------- */
.top{position:fixed;left:0;right:0;top:0;z-index:300;height:calc(var(--hdr) + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px));padding:env(safe-area-inset-top,0px) 18px 0;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--paper) 97%,transparent);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:600;font-size:1.1rem;text-decoration:none;color:var(--ink);background:none;border:0;cursor:pointer;padding:0}
.brand svg{width:28px;height:28px}
.tools{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:center}
.lang{border:1px solid var(--line);background:transparent;border-radius:999px;padding:6px 14px;cursor:pointer;font-weight:500}
.lang:hover{background:var(--sand)}
.burger{width:44px;height:44px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid var(--line);background:transparent;cursor:pointer;display:grid;place-content:center;gap:5px}
.burger i{display:block;width:20px;height:2px;background:var(--ink);transition:transform .25s,opacity .2s}
.burger[aria-expanded="true"] i:nth-child(1){transform:translateY(7px) rotate(45deg)}
.burger[aria-expanded="true"] i:nth-child(2){opacity:0}
.burger[aria-expanded="true"] i:nth-child(3){transform:translateY(-7px) rotate(-45deg)}

.menu{position:fixed;inset:0 0 0 auto;width:min(420px,100%);z-index:290;background:var(--olive-d);color:#F6EEDC;padding:calc(var(--hdr) + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px) + 24px) 34px calc(30px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px));transform:translateX(102%);transition:transform .45s cubic-bezier(.7,0,.2,1);visibility:hidden;display:flex;flex-direction:column;justify-content:center}
.menu.open{transform:none;visibility:visible}
:root[data-theme="dark"] .menu,:root:not([data-theme="light"]) .menu{--mfg:#F6EEDC}
.menu ol{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.menu li{border-bottom:1px solid rgba(246,238,220,.18)}
.menu a{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;padding:14px 0;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.7rem;color:#F6EEDC;text-decoration:none}
.menu a small{font:400 .9rem var(--sans);opacity:.7}
.menu a:hover,.menu a[aria-current="true"]{color:var(--ochre)}
.menu .note{margin-top:28px;font-size:.95rem;opacity:.75}
.scrim{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:280;background:rgba(30,25,15,.45);opacity:0;pointer-events:none;transition:opacity .35s}
.scrim.on{opacity:1;pointer-events:auto}

/* ---------- pages (shared) ---------- */
.page{position:relative;background:var(--paper);padding:calc(var(--hdr) + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px) + 34px) 22px 60px}
.page .in{max-width:1080px;margin:0 auto}
.folio{display:none}
.btn{display:inline-block;border:0;border-radius:999px;padding:13px 26px;font-weight:600;cursor:pointer;text-decoration:none;background:var(--terra);color:var(--on-terra);font-size:1rem}
.btn:hover{background:var(--terra-d);color:#FFF7EA}
.btn.alt{background:transparent;color:var(--ink);border:2px solid var(--olive)}
.btn.alt:hover{background:var(--olive);color:#FFF7EA}
.row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;margin-top:18px}
.lead{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.3rem;line-height:1.5;color:var(--olive-d)}
.facts{list-style:none;padding:0;margin:0 0 1.2em;display:grid;gap:8px}
.facts li{padding-left:22px;position:relative}
.facts li::before{content:"";position:absolute;left:0;top:.7em;width:10px;height:10px;border-radius:50% 50% 0 0;background:var(--terra)}
.stamp{display:inline-block;background:var(--sand);padding:4px 12px;border-radius:6px;font-size:.9rem;margin-bottom:14px}

/* cover */
.cover{background:var(--cream);overflow:hidden}
.cover .in{display:grid;gap:30px;align-items:center}
.cover svg.arch{width:min(300px,64vw);height:auto;justify-self:center}
.cover h1{color:var(--terra-d)}

/* structures */
.duo{display:grid;gap:22px;margin-top:22px}
.tile{border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--cream);padding:26px;border-radius:120px 120px 14px 14px}
.tile h3{margin-top:26px;text-align:center}
.tile p,.tile .meta{text-align:center;margin-inline:auto}
.meta{font-size:.95rem;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:16px}

/* gallery */
.tabs{display:flex;gap:8px;margin:6px 0 18px}
.tab{border:2px solid var(--olive);background:transparent;border-radius:999px;padding:9px 22px;cursor:pointer;font-weight:600}
.tab[aria-selected="true"]{background:var(--olive);color:#FFF7EA}
.grid{display:none;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:12px}
.grid.show{display:grid}
.ph{aspect-ratio:4/3;border-radius:10px;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;padding:12px;font-size:.92rem;color:#FFF7EA;background:linear-gradient(150deg,var(--c1),var(--c2));position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.ph::after{content:"";position:absolute;right:-30px;top:-30px;width:110px;height:110px;border-radius:50%;background:rgba(255,247,234,.18)}
.ph span{position:relative;z-index:1;background:rgba(0,0,0,.28);padding:2px 9px;border-radius:5px}
.hint{font-size:.9rem;color:var(--muted);margin-top:14px}

/* form */
form{display:grid;gap:14px;max-width:720px}
.f2{display:grid;gap:14px}
label{display:grid;gap:5px;font-weight:500;font-size:.95rem}
input,select,textarea{font:inherit;padding:11px 13px;border:1.5px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;background:var(--cream);color:var(--ink);width:100%}
input:focus,select:focus,textarea:focus{border-color:var(--terra)}
.sum{background:var(--sand);padding:12px 16px;border-radius:10px;font-weight:500;min-height:48px}
.err{color:var(--terra-d);font-weight:500;min-height:1.4em;margin:0}
.ok{border:2px solid var(--olive);border-radius:14px;padding:22px;background:var(--cream);max-width:720px}
.ok[hidden]{display:none}

/* contacts */
.cols{display:grid;gap:22px}
.card{border-top:3px solid var(--terra);padding-top:14px}
.card h3{font-size:1.25rem}
dl{margin:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr;gap:6px 14px}
dt{color:var(--muted)}
dd{margin:0}


/* ---------- sfondi vivi e dinamici ---------- */
.pg0{--g1:#FFE2B0;--g2:#F4A97E;--b2:#E8734A;--b3:#F7C65A}
.pg1{--g1:#FBD79A;--g2:#E9A06E;--b2:#C8553A;--b3:#9DB06A}
.pg2{--g1:#F5B58E;--g2:#D4694A;--b2:#F2C25B;--b3:#B0502D}
.pg3{--g1:#C9DCA6;--g2:#6FB3B8;--b2:#F2D27A;--b3:#4E9AA6}
.pg4{--g1:#FBD485;--g2:#E58F62;--b2:#7FA06A;--b3:#C8553A}
.pg5{--g1:#D6E2A6;--g2:#8DBB8E;--b2:#F0C75E;--b3:#5B8F5E}
.pg6{--g1:#F6C6A0;--g2:#D68560;--b2:#E8B04F;--b3:#8E9A5B}
.leaf .page{
  background:
    radial-gradient(circle at 50% 50%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--ochre) var(--ba),transparent) 0,transparent 34%),
    radial-gradient(circle at 50% 50%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--b2) var(--ba),transparent) 0,transparent 38%),
    radial-gradient(circle at 50% 50%,color-mix(in srgb,var(--b3) var(--ba),transparent) 0,transparent 40%),
    linear-gradient(160deg,color-mix(in srgb,#1b1610 var(--dk),var(--g1)),color-mix(in srgb,#1b1610 var(--dk),var(--g2)));
  background-size:170% 170%,190% 190%,180% 180%,100% 100%;
  background-repeat:no-repeat;
  background-position:0% 0%,100% 10%,30% 100%,0 0;
  animation:drift 26s ease-in-out infinite alternate;
}
.leaf .page.pg2{animation-duration:30s}
.leaf .page.pg3{animation-duration:34s}
.leaf .page.pg5{animation-duration:29s}
@keyframes drift{
  from{background-position:0% 0%,100% 10%,30% 100%,0 0}
  to{background-position:100% 100%,0% 80%,80% 0%,0 0}
}
.page:not(.cover) .in{position:relative;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--paper) 90%,transparent);padding:clamp(20px,4vw,36px);border-radius:26px;box-shadow:0 14px 44px -20px rgba(70,30,10,.45);border:1px solid color-mix(in srgb,var(--line) 70%,transparent)}
.cover .in{position:relative}
.cover h1{color:var(--terra-d)}
.sun{animation:bob 7s ease-in-out infinite alternate}
.waves{animation:flow 7s linear infinite}
@keyframes bob{from{transform:translateY(8px)}to{transform:translateY(-6px)}}
@keyframes flow{from{transform:translateX(0)}to{transform:translateX(-98px)}}
.note{background:var(--sand);border-radius:12px;padding:12px 16px;font-size:.95rem;margin:20px 0 0;max-width:none}
.sub{font-size:1.05rem;margin:0 0 10px}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){
  .leaf .page,.sun,.waves{animation:none}
}


.gpanel{display:none}
.gpanel.show{display:block}
.chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:0 0 20px}
.chip{border:1.5px solid var(--line);background:var(--cream);border-radius:999px;padding:6px 15px;cursor:pointer;font-size:.95rem}
.chip[aria-pressed="true"]{background:var(--terra);color:var(--on-terra);border-color:var(--terra)}
.grp{margin-bottom:26px}
.grp[hidden]{display:none}
.grp h3{font-size:1.25rem;margin-bottom:10px}
.pgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:12px}
.ph span span{background:none;padding:0}
@media (min-width:768px){.pgrid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}}


.pg7{--g1:#FADBA2;--g2:#E5A877;--b2:#6FB3B8;--b3:#C8553A}
.area{margin-top:30px;padding-top:6px;border-top:2px solid var(--terra)}
.area h3{margin-top:18px}
.area .pgrid{margin:14px 0 4px}


/* miniature territorio + lightbox */
.area .pgrid{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(104px,132px));gap:10px;justify-content:start}
.area .ph{aspect-ratio:1/1;border-radius:8px;padding:0}
.area .ph span{display:none}
.area .ph::after{width:60px;height:60px;right:-16px;top:-16px}
.ph[role="button"]{cursor:zoom-in;transition:transform .2s,box-shadow .2s}
.ph[role="button"]:hover{transform:translateY(-3px);box-shadow:0 10px 22px -10px rgba(40,20,5,.55)}
.lb{position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:500;background:rgba(22,15,8,.94);display:none;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center;padding:calc(56px + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px)) 16px calc(24px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px))}
.lb.on{display:flex}
.lb figure{margin:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:14px;max-width:100%}
.lb .big{width:min(92vw,1100px,calc((100vh - 190px) * 1.5));aspect-ratio:3/2;border-radius:12px;background:linear-gradient(150deg,var(--c1),var(--c2));display:block;object-fit:contain;max-width:100%}
.lb img.big{width:auto;height:auto;max-width:92vw;max-height:calc(100vh - 190px);aspect-ratio:auto;background:none}
.lb figcaption{color:#F6EEDC;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.15rem;text-align:center;min-height:1.6em;max-width:70ch}
.lb button{position:absolute;border:0;border-radius:50%;width:46px;height:46px;background:rgba(246,238,220,.16);color:#F6EEDC;font-size:1.6rem;cursor:pointer;line-height:1}
.lb button:hover{background:rgba(246,238,220,.32)}
.lb .x{top:calc(10px + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px));right:14px}
.lb .pv{left:12px;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%)}
.lb .nx{right:12px;top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%)}
.lb .cnt{position:absolute;top:calc(22px + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px));left:18px;color:#F6EEDC;opacity:.8;font-size:.95rem}
@media (min-width:768px){.bookmode .back{pointer-events:none}}


.ph.has-img{background:var(--sand)}
.ph.has-img::after{display:none}
.ph img{position:absolute;inset:0;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block}
.ph.has-img span{background:rgba(30,20,10,.55)}
/* recensioni */
.rev{margin-top:34px;padding-top:6px;border-top:2px solid var(--terra)}
.rev h3{margin-top:18px}
.empty{background:var(--sand);border-radius:12px;padding:14px 18px;margin:0 0 18px;max-width:none}
.rform{display:grid;gap:14px;max-width:720px}
.stars{border:0;padding:0;margin:0;display:flex;flex-direction:row-reverse;justify-content:flex-end;gap:2px}
.stars legend{float:left;width:100%;padding:0;margin-bottom:4px;font-weight:500;font-size:.95rem}
.stars input{position:absolute;opacity:0;width:1px;height:1px}
.stars label{font-size:2rem;line-height:1;cursor:pointer;color:var(--line);display:block}
.stars input:checked ~ label,.stars label:hover,.stars label:hover ~ label{color:var(--ochre)}
.stars input:focus-visible + label{outline:3px solid var(--ochre);outline-offset:2px;border-radius:6px}
.chk{display:flex;gap:10px;align-items:flex-start;font-weight:400}
.chk input{width:auto;margin-top:.3em}


.hero{margin:0 0 24px;border-radius:18px;overflow:hidden;height:clamp(190px,36vh,380px);box-shadow:0 12px 30px -16px rgba(60,30,10,.5)}
.hero img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block}


.snd{width:44px;height:44px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid var(--line);background:transparent;color:var(--ink);cursor:pointer;display:grid;place-content:center;padding:0}
.snd:hover{background:var(--sand)}
.snd svg{width:22px;height:22px;fill:currentColor;stroke:currentColor}
.snd[aria-pressed="false"] .w{display:none}
.snd[aria-pressed="true"] .m{display:none}
html:not(.bookmode) .snd{display:none}


.mus{width:44px;height:44px;border-radius:50%;border:1px solid var(--line);background:transparent;color:var(--ink);cursor:pointer;display:grid;place-content:center;padding:0}
.mus:hover{background:var(--sand)}
.mus svg{width:22px;height:22px;fill:currentColor;stroke:currentColor}
.mus[aria-pressed="true"] .m{display:none}


@media (max-width:520px){
  .top{padding-left:12px;padding-right:12px}
  .brand span{display:none}
  .tools{gap:6px}
  .lang{padding:6px 10px;font-size:.9rem}
}
.mushint{position:fixed;left:50%;transform:translateX(-50%);bottom:calc(18px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px));z-index:260;border:0;border-radius:999px;background:var(--olive-d);color:#F6EEDC;padding:12px 20px;font-weight:500;font-size:.98rem;box-shadow:0 8px 24px -8px rgba(0,0,0,.5);cursor:pointer;white-space:nowrap}

/* ---------- mobile: single scrolling page ---------- */
html:not(.bookmode) .leaf{display:block}
html:not(.bookmode) .back{display:none}
html:not(.bookmode) .page{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
html:not(.bookmode) .ctrl{display:none}
html:not(.bookmode) .page:not(.cover){padding-top:44px}
html:not(.bookmode) .cover{min-height:100svh;padding-top:calc(var(--hdr) + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px) + 30px)}

/* ---------- desktop / tablet: magazine ---------- */
@media (min-width:600px) and (min-height:480px){
  html.bookmode,html.bookmode body{height:100%;overflow:hidden}
  html.bookmode body{background:#2A2418}
  .bookmode .book{position:fixed;inset:0;perspective:2600px;-webkit-perspective:2600px;overflow:hidden}
  .bookmode .leaf{position:absolute;inset:0;visibility:hidden;transform-origin:left center;transform-style:preserve-3d;-webkit-transform-style:preserve-3d;transition:transform 1s cubic-bezier(.6,.05,.25,1)}
  .bookmode .leaf.vis{visibility:visible}
  .bookmode .leaf.turning{will-change:transform}
  .bookmode .leaf.flipped{transform:rotateY(-180deg)}
  .bookmode .face{position:absolute;inset:0;backface-visibility:hidden;-webkit-backface-visibility:hidden;overflow-y:auto;overscroll-behavior:contain;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch}
  .bookmode .back{transform:rotateY(180deg);background:linear-gradient(90deg,var(--sand),var(--paper) 40%)}
  .bookmode .leaf:not(.vis) .page{animation:none}
  .bookmode .page{min-height:100%;padding:calc(var(--hdr) + env(safe-area-inset-top,0px) + 36px) 48px 96px clamp(84px,12vw,108px)}
  .bookmode .face::after{content:"";position:sticky;display:block;bottom:0;height:0}
  .bookmode .leaf .front{box-shadow:inset 18px 0 22px -16px rgba(40,30,10,.35)}
  .bookmode .leaf.turning .front{box-shadow:inset 18px 0 22px -16px rgba(40,30,10,.35),14px 0 40px rgba(0,0,0,.35)}
  .bookmode .folio{display:block;position:absolute;left:0;top:0;bottom:0;width:72px;background:var(--olive-d);color:#F6EEDC}
  .bookmode .folio span{position:sticky;top:50vh;display:block;writing-mode:vertical-rl;transform:rotate(180deg);font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.1rem;padding:30px 0;margin:0 auto;width:max-content;transform-origin:center;white-space:nowrap}
  .ctrl{position:fixed;z-index:250;left:50%;transform:translateX(-50%);bottom:calc(16px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom,0px));display:flex;align-items:center;gap:14px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--paper) 96%,transparent);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;padding:6px 10px}
  .ctrl button{width:42px;height:42px;border-radius:50%;border:0;background:var(--terra);color:var(--on-terra);font-size:1.3rem;cursor:pointer}
  .ctrl button:disabled{opacity:.3;cursor:default}
  .ctrl output{min-width:120px;text-align:center;font-family:var(--serif)}
}
@media (min-width:768px){
  .bookmode .cover .in{grid-template-columns:1.2fr .8fr;gap:56px;min-height:calc(100vh - 220px)}
  .duo,.cols{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:28px}
  .f2{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}
  .grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){
  .bookmode .leaf{transition-duration:.01s}
  .menu,.scrim{transition-duration:.01s}
}

[hidden]{display:none!important}
.hp{position:absolute;left:-9999px;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden}
.revlist{display:grid;gap:14px;margin:0 0 22px}
.rv{border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--cream);border-radius:14px;padding:16px 18px}
.rv-stars{color:var(--ochre);font-size:1.25rem;letter-spacing:2px}
.rv-meta{font-size:.92rem;color:var(--muted);margin:2px 0 8px}
.rv p{margin:0;max-width:none}